RUNWAY
Milan Fashion Week – FENDI
Written By Luc Cormier
Chiuri’s debut is a mixed bag(uette)
Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted her first Fendi show in Milan. The Fall show was interesting to me, at least. Fendi showed 80 looks this season, which is a lot. I usually prefer 30-60; I’d rather all the fat be trimmed. It seems like Fendi has fallen out of the zeitgeist in recent years. I can’t decide, based on this debut, whether Chiuri is totally up for the challenge of bringing Fendi back.
Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
I loved how Chiuri used fur in this show; it seems like fur is popular right now. I hope that this fur was ethically sourced (recycled). Look 18 with the black fur collar was really compelling, who doesn’t love a trenchcoat? I think the many ways designers have been reinventing it have been exciting, but I’m ready for another subversion now. The menswear version in Look 37 was also great.
Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
Look 20 felt like it was trying to appeal to young people, and it’s so close. There’s just something off. Maybe the cargos are cut weirdly or photographed weirdly. I don’t like the shirt they styled it with. However, I love the fur and embellished vest.
Look 20 Gianluca Carraro // Gorunway.com
Look 38 Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
The patchwork fur jacket in Look 38 is insane. The layering of the fur is really cool, and even the different treatments are great. Texturally stunning.
I did not like the jumpsuit in Look 45. These zippers are so strange; they do not look utilitarian, just kind of uninteresting. The bag they paired with, however, is awesome, more fur, more fun.
Look 45 Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
Look 56 Umberto Fratini // Gorunway.com
Look 56 appears to be made of lace at first glance, but is actually intricately cut leather applied onto a netting. I love this technique of taking something traditionally so masculine and turning it into something feminine. Chiuri always plays with gender in a very conceptual way, even if the result isn’t always savoury to the masses. I loved the use of the technique on Look 57 baguette and the dress on 60.
The show finished with several evening looks that did not strike me. I wasn’t offended or delighted. I liked the fur collars on Looks 75, 76, and 77, though. The use of fur throughout the collection was wonderful.
